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#1
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While I can't state for certain, I do think that the hand requirements are about 1.5 times as good, so think maybe about 5 more hands than the standard 10 you would normally play. This is how I translate it in O8.
Also, more hands per hour. As well, if you are a good post-flop player, it will definately be to your advantage to make the jump to these tables.
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#2
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I love 6 max.... absolutely love it.
You're logic is correct, but I want to add something about the blind steals. People are much more protective of their blinds, so the steals work less often. I won't try to steal with any 2 cards from the button. I still fold junk and barely loosen up my starting requirements for a steal attempt. Why? Because I'll bet 90%+ of the time, I get at least one caller. Maybe even more of then than that.... With the blinds coming around so much faster, you need to play more hands, of course. Thinking in terms of good Black Jack hands (20 and higher) is a good starting point. I almost always open for a raise. It's rare for me to limp in, but if I'm at a very loose passive table, I'll occasionally limp in with a hand like 78s from EP. This is usualy an easy fold, but on a LP table, it can be profitable. As you know, aggression only works so well in limit, but I find it's more effective in short seated games... so turn it up a notch. My advice to you: Try out the 2/4 6 max tables. I know you don't want to "move down," but you're going to get in a lot mroe hands per hour and the variance for 6 max is a lot higher than full rings games as well, so you're going to want a bigger bankroll anyway. Play a couple thousand hands and see how you're feeling. I'm no expert, but I am a winning 6 max player. I'd be happy to go over some specific HHs for you if you post them. |
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